Counting regarding the authority you might ask, 20 to 30% of people throughout the world process data best auditorily. They are the individuals who have an unusual remembrance connected with classes, which remember a tall tale, as well as who are able to successfully quote just what your uncle told a person’s aunt three Christmases back. Unfortunately for these people, they’re also extremely susceptible to unwanted noise, such as the tv within the next room, the sound of someone else’s game, as well as the traffic going by on the street. A result of this kind of blessing/curse would be that the auditory man or woman who resides in the location, works inside a chaotic business office and features a gregarious family unit about him while at home is really like as not half crazy more often than not seeking auditory peace and quiet. The great thing is that it’s very easy to switch the whole world all the way down with Noise Cancelling Headphones. Earphones such as Sport Headphones, that are great for men and women exercising at the club or perhaps out running help folks appreciate a lot fewer potential distractions while exercising or while holding a job. Now, a good auditory man is competent to serenely co-exist with the rest of the entire world while listening to the songs as well as podcast connected with his / her choice. You can manage your own airwaves using a set of prime noise stopping headphones, today!
What were the big style takeaways from the catwalks in London, Milan and Paris last June? Here we break down the 12 big menswear trends you need to know for spring/summer ’16…
Get yourself a Cuban collar
From left to right: Topman Design, Louis Vuitton, Lanvin, Valentino, E Tautz
This season we’re looking back to the 1950s and taking inspiration from your grandfather’s favourite short-sleeved shirt. As temperatures rise, ditch your heavy knitwear and button down Oxford shirts. Instead get yourself some lightweight shirts featuring the retro Cuban collar. For an even more spring-appropriate look, don’t be afraid to go bold.
Photography by Indigital
From left to right: Dolce & Gabbana, Yohji Yamamoto, Neil Barrett, Gucci, James Long
Usually during the shows it becomes clear that one particular type of pattern will rule over all for the season – however no such thing emerged for spring/summer ’16. Instead, the trend came from not what to wear, but how to wear it – as a head-to-toe look. Whether you go for matching pattern at top and bottom or two colour-complementary exploded prints, the key to pulling this off is exercising restraint where it’s needed. Keep your accessories solid coloured and preferably in blank-canvas shades like navy, black or white, and let that big bold print speak for itself.
Summer’s a grey area
Usually the warmer months invite an explosion of colour on the catwalks – but for Spring-Summer 2016 designers seemed to unanimously decide on a more subdued palette, with grey topping the list as the most widely-seen hue. Sure, it’s a colour that all men have in their wardrobe already, but next season it’s all about how you wear it: varying shades and patterns of grey should be worn all at once to create a look that’s big on texture.
From left to right: Missoni, Neil Barrett, Berluti, Oliver Spencer, Paul Smith
Get some greens
Green has been around for a few seasons now, but this season it’s booming. While we’ve previously seen green as a head-to-toe outfit in the same shade, for S/S ’16 we’ll see the shades split up and mixed together. Beginners should clash hues using accessories (such as ties or bags), but for next level menswear points commit with a few contrasting pieces that you can wear together.
From left to right: Burberry Prosum, Hermes, Gieves & Hawkes, Canali, Ann Demeulemeester
Stride out in baggy trousers
We’ve seen baggy trousers bubbling under the surface for a couple of seasons now, but this season they burst through in a big way with the vast majority of designers showing loosened-up shapes.
While we loved the wide-leg jeans at E Tautz and quilted trousers at Craig Green, the main way we saw these worn was with tailoring.
If you’re going to invest in a casual suit, make sure it has trousers with a slouchy cut.
From left to right: Agi & Sam, E Tautz, Giorgio Armani, Craig Green, Fendi, Etro, Lanvin, Bally
Learn the meaning of “Chinoiserie”
There were lots of shout-outs to China in the collections, with pyjama trousers, silk shirts and even full suits cut from Chinoiserie (aka patterns that are influenced by Eastern elements such as dragons, animals and flowers). However, the most popular (and wearable) way that we saw this type of print executed was on a series of bold, silk baseball and bomber jackets, most notably at Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino and Louis Vuitton.
From left to right: Marc Jacobs, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton, Valentino
Jeans are more distressed than ever
Good news for guys who get through their jeans at a rate of knots: next season’s denim is ripped, patched, bleached – all but destroyed, basically. And while ones that are slashed to pieces might only be for the boldest among us, the key takeaway is that your jeans should look lived in – whether that’s through a lighter wash or a repair or two.
From left to right: Baartmans & Siegel, James Long, Tiger of Sweden, Calvin Klein Collection, Philipp Plein
Anoraks are back
The humble pac-a-mac is going high-end. When an inevitable, impromptu rain shower hits, make sure you’ve got a light nylon cover-up to hand. While we saw ones in patterns at Brioni and bold, block colours at E Tautz, the most popular style was see-though – which is handy, because it goes with everything you already own.
From left to right: Z Zegna, Brioni, Lou Dalton, Wooyoungmi, Hardy Amies
The only hat you’ll need next season…
No longer just the preserve of American sportsmen out on the diamond, baseball caps were all over the catwalks for the new season. However, forget those snapbacks you know from Nineties boybands, this new breed is made from luxurious materials like leather, suede and exotic skins and is intended to be worn just as easily with your suit as with your weekend jeans – and should be worn with the peak facing frontwards at all times.
From left to right: Balmain, Les Hommes, Berthold, Salvatore Ferragamo, Versace
Your 2 essential summer layers: a suede jacket and a zip-up
The Seventies vibe we saw hit its peak during autumn/winter ’15 continues for the new season, so if you are debating investing in a suede jacket, rest assured that it will carry you through to the summer. Another item you should invest in is the zip-up jogging suit-style jumper, which we saw worn in a variety of ways: under suits, as a light top layer and, our personal favourite, tied around the waist and ready for sundown.
From left to right: Belstaff, Officine Generale, Bottega Veneta, Topman Design, Ami, Prada
Backpacks you can take to the boardroom
Photography by Getty Images
The backpack revolution has been happening for a while now, however this season saw a slew of designers playing with the shapes, sizes and materials – boosting the genre to all-new heights of sleekness. While we saw them at Louis Vuitton and Wooyoungmi, our personal favourite was the slim iteration above from Hermes, cut from navy leather and finished with sparkling chrome hardware, it’s more than smart enough to wear with a suit to the office.
Socks ‘n’ sandals aren’t going anywhere
Look around you when you’re next out in the sun: you’ll notice a swathe of men around you will be wearing pool slides with gym socks. It’s something that’s also cropped up on the designers’ radars too – almost every show from the edgiest East End label to the most conservative Italian fashion houses featured sandals on socks worn together. However, the difference is that plastic pool slides have been replaced by beautiful leather straps and those white tube socks with luxurious cotton and cashmere iterations, often in co-ordinating colours. Time to unleash you inner German tourist, gentlemen…
From left to right: Margaret Howell, Maison Margiela, Bottega Veneta, Versace, Kenzo
As more brands combine their men’s and women’s shows, what is the future of standalone men’s fashion weeks?
LONDON, United Kingdom — Of the many changes brands are making to the fashion week formula, one approach seems to be sticking: mixed-gender catwalk shows.
Starting in September, Burberry and Bottega Veneta will combine their men’s and women’s collections into one show, held on the women’s show schedule. In 2017, Gucci will follow suit and Tommy Hilfiger has announced plans to “eventually” do the same.
Meanwhile, Zegna, Calvin Klein, Brioni, Cavalli, Costume National, and Ermanno Scervino have all opted not to host shows at Milan menswear week in June, leaving the men’s schedule noticeably empty. Zegna and Calvin Klein will skip this season as they change designers, while Brioni will show at women’s couture week in Paris instead. In Paris, Balenciaga’s first menswear show will bolster the schedule, though both Berluti and Saint Laurent will be absent this season.
For brands, mixed-gender shows have some advantages. First, there are the costs saved by hosting one show rather than two. Some designers also conceive their men’s and women’s collections from the same ideas and inspirations, so showing them together makes sense from a creative standpoint (although some major houses employ different creative leaders for their men’s and women’s businesses). And in some stores, menswear and womenswear are merchandised together, so it is helpful for buyers to view them together on the runway.
So how will mixed-gender shows impact men’s fashion weeks, especially fledgling weeks like London Collections: Men, which launched in 2012, and New York Fashion Week: Men’s, which launched last year? Without blockbuster shows by brands like Burberry, will these events still pull in international buyers and editors? BoF spoke to a handful of industry insiders to find out.
Steven Kolb, president & chief executive officer, CFDA
“The validity of New York Fashion Week: Men’s is still strong. It might not be the giant animal that other men’s fashion weeks have been or are — or might not be much longer. But it has a valid purpose and I don’t see that going away. There are so many brands that are singularly men’s, which feed off the trade show schedule and see the value of being in the market. There is still a validity for NYFW: Men’s in terms of feeding talent that is new and young.
What I see happening, though, is this blur between collections. I see a shift to ‘seasonless’ ideas. What I think is going to happen is you’ll see men’s shows now having women’s collections, you’ll see men’s and women’s together, you’ll see men’s going into women’s, you’ll see brands going off Spring and Fall and into Pre-Collections. I think we’ll find ourselves not even saying Pre-Fall, Fall, Resort anymore, but going with what some brands are already doing: Collection 1, Collection 2, Collection 3.”
Caroline Rush, chief executive officer, British Fashion Council
“Having designers question pre-conceived notions of gender or simply recognising that menswear collections are appealing to a female consumer is a trend that continues. Craig Green, for example, has started using female models to show his collections in order to appeal to his pre-existing female clients. Showing menswear and womenswear alongside each other on the runway when you have one creative director helps to build a cohesive brand. The prevalence of womenswear in the summer men’s shows also works in terms of timings [due to the] menswear shows’ crossover with Pre-Collections sales times.
Having said that, we are keen that this doesn’t eclipse the fact that we have significant menswear-only businesses and leading menswear talent in London, and that this is being promoted accordingly to reach a growing market segment. We also recognise that blending shows does cause challenges for audiences that may not traditionally travel to menswear shows. We take this point seriously and are exploring new ways in which we can work with audiences to make this work or deliver exclusive content around the shows.”
Vanessa Friedman, fashion director & chief fashion critic, The New York Times
“Mixed-gender shows may be the end of men’s fashion weeks as we have known them for the last two years — i.e. as a week each in London, New York, Milan and Paris. What I would expect is that more brands that sell both men’s and womenswear will begin to buy into the economic and creative logic of showing both lines together. This will probably pump up the women’s schedule, which is already longer and more populated than men’s, and thus has a certain magnetic pull, though it could also have beneficial fall-out for Pre-Collections (Public School will have its unified show during Resort in New York this month).
What it may do, however, is put an end to the men’s weeks in London and New York, which are the youngest of the bunch (despite the fact Sibling has just announced it is showing its unified lines during London Collections: Men, which complicates things further). However, brands that sell only menswear will still need an outlet and a fashion week of their own, and it may not make sense for them to show during womenswear. My guess is the unexpected beneficiary of all this will be Pitti Uomo in Florence.”
Josh Peskowitz, co-founder, Magasin
“Mixed gender shows aren’t the end of men’s fashion shows, but they will redefine fashion weeks. Most of the big houses don’t only do men’s, so if they all combine it will change the scheduling of the weeks. The amount of shows left over wouldn’t be enough to merit the investment in travel. If the schedule does shift to the dates of men’s (which would be better for women’s buyers as well) then we will have to consider the economic and logistical repercussions of the move. New York, Milan and Paris hotels are already packed, not to mention the show venues. Having both sides of the industry in the same cities at the same time would be very hard to navigate. Will there be enough cars to hire? Enough hotel rooms? Enough seats? Who gets precedence?
Since fashion shows are just as much marketing as a tool for editorial and retail, it makes sense to get a bigger impact for the investment. So from the brands’ perspective it seems to me like a win. I don’t think it would necessarily lessen editorial coverage of the men’s shows, but readers and consumers would not necessarily have the bandwidth to sift through all the info.”
Suzy Menkes, international editor, Vogue
“For 22 years, I did the men’s shows as well as the women’s shows when virtually nobody else was doing that. And then, suddenly, the men’s collections flowered and became immensely important. I think they’re now going to be reduced back to a natural state of things. I certainly think that Zegna, which is a real example of men’s clothing, is completely different from a brand that does men’s and women’s like Gucci. So I don’t know how you divide those up, but I’d say leave more room, more space for the genuine menswear companies and combine the others.”
Justin O’Shea, creative director, Brioni
“I think having men and women together is more positive than negative. The women’s industry moves at a far faster rate than the men’s industry. I think that the more youthful, enthusiastic excitement and more fun in the women’s industry is something that men’s doesn’t have as much.
I think the best part about LC:M is that it’s the new generation of men’s fashion week. It’s all young designers, it’s ultimately creative — the commerciality of it is probably something that will develop over time, but it’s still something that is very exciting. Just look at the difference: LC:M is exciting; Milan men’s fashion week is boring. That’s not any detriment to the brands, but maybe some people need a kick in the ass — can you survive during the same thing or do you need to move along a little?
Whether LC:M should be on the same schedule as London women’s fashion week, I think that is a really interesting idea — whether the show schedule can hold men and women together. Maybe then fashion weeks should be like, ‘Should all shows be on schedule?’”
Tim Blanks, editor-at-large, The Business of Fashion
“What will be very interesting is how you combine the media. That’s probably the challenge — does that mean more work for less journalists?
I think combining men’s and women’s shows makes sense when you see collections like Gucci, because the compatibility of the two collections is so great. The same with Helmut Lang, back in the olden days — you can never imagine those collections being split. It will create interesting synchronicities that don’t exist right now.
But then you’re into all that stuff about deliveries. We’re looking at rationalisation on so many levels right now, and [everyone showing on the men’s timings in January and June] would seem to be quite a sensible one.”
Angelo Flaccavento, fashion journalist
“To me it makes perfect sense in terms of creative vision and timing, too. It can be a bit tricky in terms of press, because there are two separate outlets — menswear and womenswear magazines. But there are also less and less differences between men and women. Most collections just carry on the same inspiration, so it makes perfect sense.”
Kevin Harter, vice president & men’s fashion director, Bloomingdale’s
“Selfishly, I love having a fashion week where men’s is the focus. I’ve seen it so many times where men’s has had to take the back seat. But I understand what’s going on in the market. The reality is we’re going to see more people combining their shows — and even more importantly, showing their clothing in more unique ways. I think that’s what we’re all preparing for. There’s a real element of the unknown out there right now.”
Bosse Myhr, Director of Menswear, Selfridges
“The key point of interest for me is a new sense of fluidity and freedom in the industry. All formats are relevant now — and increasingly designers can find their own way and on their own terms. There was a point when people thought fashion shows would be a thing of the past in the digital age — when this format is now more dynamic, accessible and engaging than ever before. Men’s fashion weeks are a valuable platform — flexibility and new ideas can only bring new and expanded opportunities.”
The Punjabi designed dresses are very much popular in the some special parts of Punjab both in India as well as in Pakistan .The Punjabi designed dresses is basically assumed to be used by the Punjabi men and women only .But this is not the case .Now in today’s fashion industry, the designers of our Pakistan country are making such outfits that fits all the persons of any culture of the country .The designers of our Punjabi ladies dresses are :
- Ø Maria B
- Ø Gull Ahmad
- Ø Asim Jofa
- Ø Hassan Sheheryar Yasin and many many more .
All these designers make Punjabi outfits both for men and women .
- Punjabi dress for females:
The ladies wear such type of salwar kameez which consists of a chunni which is basically a head scarf, jhagga which is also called kameez and the salwar .These dresses are used by both Indian and Pakistani women .
- Ø Chunni:
Chunni is a long head scarf which is of different length and styles .Basically Punjabi women adapt the culture and trend of wearing chunni on head every time .
- Ø Jhagga:
The jhagga which is also called the kameez usually consists of such fabric having two pieces in length which are stitched together with side fleets .
- Ø Salwar:
It is common just like any other salwar but it is stitched in a different way .It is stitched that it is lose from the top having fleets through out the salwar while it became tightened from the toe with some hard item which is also known as ‘Punchey’ .
- Punjabi dresses for males:
Male persons also wear such Punjabi suit design that are according to their culture and trend .Usually male Punjabi outfits consists of :
- Ø A chaddar which is lengthy enough to be used in replacement of salwar. Usually aged person used to wear chaddar while youngsters used to wear simply stitched salwar .
- Ø Kameez which is simply stitched but lose in fitting .
- Ø Turban is also used by aged persons and youngsters use turbans on special occasions .
- Ø Khussa is the accessory which is used by both male and female Punjabians .
Sooner or later, everyone needs to find a place to buy zippers. Zippers are actually very reliable, considering how many items they’re used on, but they’ve managed to get an unwarranted reputation as being prone to breaking down. Regardless, they get used on many things, both because they are sturdy and because they make a seal as well as a closure.
They also have zippers by the yard for sale, so that you can have more control over the zippers you’re making. This works best if you need to get a large number of zippers for corporate or team items.
Finally, Zippershipper also has rhinestone zippers. This lets you add pizzazz to any item. You can use them to either make them an integral part of a new piece, or you can use them to replace zippers on favorite pieces of clothing.
If you are bored of looking too casual in parties, it’s high time you incorporated newness into your wardrobe. Yes, slipping into a pair of jeans and a formal shirt is easy but you shouldn’t wear such a dress to a party even when you are heavily tempted to do so. Most women who give priority to comfort prefer to stay away from elaborate dresses like sarees and salwar kameez, simply because wearing them is difficult. As a result, they show up at parties in some of the most unattractive, casual looking dresses. It’s ok to not care if other women look better than you but you should not feel ok if it’s the other way round i.e. you looking inferior to other women present in the party. With a casual dress such as a western top teamed with a pair of jeans, you are invariably going to look out-of-place in parties. Don’t let that happen. If comfort is your priority, let it be but dress appropriately. Try party wear kurtis. They are not only stylish but also extremely comfortable. What will excite you most about such kurtis is that they don’t need you to have expertise in wearing them. You can slip into one just as you slip into a t-shirt. There is absolutely no fuss.
While it’s important to consider fashion, your own taste should never be undermined. Even if it’s a bright red that you like, don’t stop yourself from picking it just because bright red is not in trend. True, we wear clothes to look beautiful or attract compliments but we also wear them so as to please our own selves. So, it’s absolutely alright to wear something that your sister or husband or mother wants you to wear or maybe because that’s what is in fashion. But make sure you don’t let that happen on a regular basis.
Hit the market and pick what you like. Don’t completely ignore current fashion trends and don’t neglect your likes and dislikes either. Strike a balance and you will pick an out-and-out beautiful party wear kurti. Sometimes, shopkeepers become your fashion guide. You might feel like ignoring whatever they say about how you look in a particular dress but they often give honest comments. So, take what they say about your appearance in a particular dress seriously,
Shopping for party wear kurtis is often tricky, especially when you don’t want to go all loud and gaudy. Striking a balance between gaudiness and simplicity is often difficult. And that is why it’s always better to take someone with you shopping who can offer an opinion in such a matter. Ask them how you look in a particular colour or pattern or design and see if they offer a positive feedback. If not, it would be wise not to invest in it.The bottom line is that you must choose your party wear kurti with utmost care.
Beard styles are something that has a huge variety among men. As the trend of having a beard is increasing quickly, we have brought to you another post regarding different beard style. There are so many ways to keep a beard. You can have beard without a mustache or a goatee beard. You can also have short beard without mustache or a chin strap beard styles.
So we are starting with the goatee styles. As you already know, it is the easiest and quick men beard style to adapt. It does not require too much of maintenance. If you are new for this style, you must be having a question in your mind that how do I grow a goatee. Well, the answer is that you need to grow to facial hair below your lip. Once a certain amount of hair is grown, you have to choose one of the perfect shaving styles for facial hair for you. There are so many styles of goatees. First one is the small goatee with little beard. This is a very suitable kind of look. It is apt for office as well as parties. This is also quick to do but you have keep maintained that beard. The next one among goatee styles is the goatee with thick beard. This is quite opposite to the one mentioned above. This is also suitable for most of the occasions. In this, you need to grow your facial hair a bit longer. It is suitable for all face shapes. Another goatee beard style is the opposite triangular one. This came into trend when Hollywood celebs adapted it. It is one of the highly classy and stylish goatees. It is totally up to you that you want to keep a beard with it or not. But if you completely want to follow celebs look, then you should keep fine facial hairs.
Suitable face shapes for goatee styles
Almost every face shaped, whether it is long, round, v-shaped or square, it is suitable for all. The reason is that it does not cover a large area of your face. In this style, you don’t need long or thick facial hair. A little facial hair will be sufficient for such beard styles.
Maintenance of goatee beard
For goatees, you don’t need more facial hair and that’s why more maintenance is not needed. If you a beginner, then also you can try this style on your own. It is not compulsory that for the first time you need to visit a salon. Such beard styles can easily be maintained without any professional assistance.
Sometimes a beard looks incomplete without mustache. To complete your manly look, there are so many options among mustache styles which you can choose. We are starting with the basic one. The basic one is that you just grow your facial hair and let it grow. After that, you have to decide whether you want a thick or thin facial hair styles. It is understood that for the thick one, you have to wait longer. The mustache can be full length, in the mid of upper lip, it can be straight or it can be curly from the edges. The choice depends on you. It also depends on the fact that what kind of mustache styles actually suits you. For beginners it is better that they start with the basic style. Because going from no-mustache to a full-mustache might be difficult for you.
Maintenance of mustache styles
Yes, it requires maintenance. But the main fact is that you need to be very careful during trimming. Carelessness can lead to injuries. Mostly the upper lip has to face minor cuts due to mishaps in trimming in such men beard style. If you are beginner, you can go to a salon.
Facial hair styles
It refers to what kind of beard you are willing to carry. You can have naturally thick or thin facial hair. For the bushy look, you need thick facial hair. And for the cleanly trimmed look, thin facial hair is needed. As you go further, there are so many options for different beard style. One of the most stylish look in beard is the beard connected to upper jaw. This look is suitable for informal occasions, and sometimes for formal also, but not always. Another style is the finely trimmed full beard. In this, facial hairs are covering half of your cheek and mustache area. In such facial hair styles, maintenance is more. It is a rough look but manly yet.
For thick men beard style, initial maintenance is less. Because in the beginning stage you just need to let your hair grow. After that you need to keep maintenance other the look can appear as untidy and unhygienic. The fact is that maintenance changes according to different beard style. For thin facial hair look, maintenance starts at an earlier stage because here you need to manage your facial hair from the very beginning.
So this was all about the goatees, mustache and facial hair styles. And as we always say, choose the one that compliments you.
1.Christian Bale Thin chin facial hair with goatee styles
2.Dwayne Johnson Full chin with fine mustache beard styles
3.George Clooney Jaw facial hair styles with mustache for men
4.Fine jaw line trimmed beard with mustache styles
5.Long mustache with thick different Goatee style
6.Messy and thick latest men beard style
7.Hugh Jackman Jaw and under jaw beard styles with joint mustache
8.Leonardo DiCaprio Small goatees with very less facial hair beard look
9.Pierce Brosnan Bushy beard and full mustache facial hair styles
10.Robert Downey Opposite triangle goatee beard with fine facial hair
11.Robert Downey Jaw line beard with fine mustache styles
12.Robert Pattinson Only chin facial hair as different Goatee beard style
13.Brad Pitt Small goatees with thin facial hair style for men
14.Brad Pitt Thick and long beard with goatee styles
15.Hugh Jackman Full bushy beard and mustache beard styles
16.Hugh Jackman Thick goatees for thicker facial hair with mustache
17.jason statham Cleanly trimmed half cheek facial hair styles
18.johnny depp Unique goatee styles with tied beard in two sections
19.Bushy beard styles for thick and more facial hair
20.paul walker Messy goatees with trimmed facial hair all over
The fashion industry is in crisis at the moment. Designers far and wide are talking of a broken system, while many labels – including Burberry, Gucci, Vetements and Public School – have recently announced that they’ll be merging their men’s and women’s collections together, in spite of the traditional calendar that keeps them separate.
On the outset, it makes perfect sense – fashion shows are expensive, and the lines between men’s and women’s clothing are getting blurrier by the day. However, any shift to the fashion schedule is bound to have huge ramifications on the people working in the industry – mainly for the buyers who keep stores stocked with clothes and the editors who keep publications filled with eye candy and reading material.
I hit up a few friends and associates to find out what their thoughts are on this latest development to the fashion industry’s current growing pains. Jian DeLeon is Highsnobiety‘s editor-at-large and trend forecasting agency WGSN’s resident #menswear expert, Eliza Brooke is a Senior Reporter for women’s publication Racked, and Jill Wenger is the founder and CEO of unisex concept boutique Totokaelo.
How do you feel about the merging of men’s and women’s shows? Is it a good thing?
Jill Wenger, Founder & CEO, Totokaelo: It seems to be becoming necessary in order to keep up with various collections and deliveries. As a buyer, the efficiency of combined markets is nice. I imagine there will be more overlap in concept and fabrics between mens and women’s collections, so that the runway presentation is cohesive. It aligns with the gender bending that’s happening in retail stores, too.
Eliza Brooke, Senior Reporter, Racked: I think for a brand like Gucci, merging men’s and women’s shows makes a ton of sense aesthetically. Alessandro Michele has both men and women wearing things like pussy bows, transparent lace shirts, and colorful floral suits, so a joint show is only going to emphasize his take on androgynous dressing. (And, as a side note, I think it’s dope that Michele’s version of androgyny skews toward more traditionally “feminine” styles, since in so many cases androgynous dressing means women dressing more “masculine.” I think overturning the assumption that male is always the default is great.) For other brands, a merged show might not be quite as visually (or philosophically) impactful, but could be useful in saving money, since runway shows can be incredibly expensive — which is a particular challenge for younger brands.
Jian DeLeon, Editor-at-Large, Highsnobiety & WGSN: It was bound to happen eventually. Fashion, at its best, is reflective of a society’s values, and pushes culture toward an aspirational place. It’s why a lot of the designers deemed influential or “good” have created provocative work that evokes emotions on either end of the spectrum. It’s why I love when people who aren’t into fashion are like “What the hell am I looking at?” – because that means it’s working. The last thing that envelope-pushing designers should want to be is safe.
And when you look at the progress society has made in the past few years in regards to overall awareness of trans and LGBQT culture, it’s really kind of amazing. The Internet has helped that. Celebrities like Caitlyn Jenner, Lady Gaga, and Laverne Cox have really put it in a new spotlight. I mean, ten years ago, most guys thought fashion was a “gay” thing. And now that’s a very dated point-of-view. I think by now most men realize what you wear or being into designers has no correlation to who you love. It’s more like we pick our favorite designers like we pick our favorite sports clubs. It’s a non-factor.
And the more guys get into clothes, the more we’re willing to experiment with different cuts and silhouettes. Especially for the hobbyists and enthusiasts who always want to find the newest thing. Brands have become like bands in that sense, and we all know what musicians like David Bowie did in terms of blurring lines and smashing social norms.
What potential downsides can you see, if any?
Jill Wenger, Totokaelo: The real design talents will figure out how to make it work.
Eliza Brooke, Racked: I’m curious whether merging men’s and women’s shows would mess with the buying cycle. If Gucci shows men’s and women’s during the womenswear shows in September and February, how does that affect menswear buyers?
Jian DeLeon, Highsnobiety & WGSN: Menswear has always been womenswear’s second banana. I mean, it’s the D-Leagues and the women’s shows are the majors. The menswear industry will never go away, but I can imagine it might be hard to implement on a larger scale, at companies where you have specialized buying and design teams that cater to a specific demographic. But at the end of the day, that’s all logistics. What’s happening to fashion is what’s happened to media and music. You have to learn to adapt or you risk falling by the wayside. It probably happened to this industry late because the truth is, a lot of our manufacturing processes and the means by which we buy, ship, and access our clothes hasn’t changed much in the last few centuries. There have been no technological revolutions in how we make product, only in how we can buy it at the digital level.
Are you noticing men becoming more interested in womenswear? How about the opposite?
Jill Wenger, Totokaelo: Clothes are clothes are clothes are clothes. I’m not seeing clients acknowledge gender either way. If they like it, they like it.
Eliza Brooke, Racked: I’m not sure that men are becoming more interested in womenswear, but I’d definitely say that women are becoming more interested in menswear — or at least more aware of it. Reporters for more general interest publications can see that the menswear market is growing, so they’re going to write toward that. As a womenswear writer based out of New York, the publications I work at are not necessarily going to fly me out to Europe for the men’s shows, but they will cover NYFW:M in some capacity.
Jian DeLeon, Highsnobiety & WGSN: If you’re a fan of men’s fashion, you probably have some understanding of womenswear. The directional men’s stuff often follows what influential womenswear designers are doing. A lot of guys know who Phoebe Philo is, but probably won’t wear Céline – aside from maybe a pair of sneakers. On the flip side, women have loved men’s clothes from the start. Look at Diane Keaton in Annie Hall, or any woman that’s grown up with sneakers or streetwear culture. These are both predominantly male cultures, but women have always been an intrinsic part of them.
Sweden is one of the world’s most egalitarian countries. And there, designers like Our Legacy and Acne Studios specialize in these androgynous, minimalist silhouettes. But overall, there’s less stigma for a woman to wear a man’s clothes than for a man to wear a woman’s. And when you think about that, it’s kind of silly for there to be a stigma for a guy to wear an androgynous-looking overcoat just because it was made for women.
What do you think of the future of fashion weeks in general?
Jill Wenger, Totokaelo: Fashion weeks mean different things to different people. As a buyer, I end up missing half the shows because I’m in appointments and trying to squeeze in visits to 150+ vendors over the span of 20 days. Having to submit large orders that will impact six months of selling within 24 hours of a three-hour appointment isn’t ideal. In my dream scenario, we would view all the shows one month and submit all our orders the next month!
Eliza Brooke, Racked: With all these change-ups to the fashion calendar, it’s clear that designers are unhappy with the way things are currently working. Future fashion weeks are for sure going to look different, but what exactly it’s going to look like is hard to say. I think brands are just trying out a lot of different formats right now, and some are going to work and some won’t. Everyone’s on one big learning curve together.
Jian DeLeon, Highsnobiety & WGSN: That’s a tough one. Maybe the calendars will merge? That would be a logistical nightmare, though. The point of having separate men’s and women’s shows originally reflected the different retail calendar both markets have. Not to mention, should the weeks merge, travel and hospitality would be a nightmare. As I said before, a lot of larger retailers have specialized teams focusing on a specific market, and I can imagine how insane it would be for a company to have to send say, 20 buyers abroad in one go. I’m interested to see what will happen though.
For more thoughts on the broken fashion system, check out T magazine’s in-depth interview with Vetements’ Demna Gvasalia and Gucci’s Alessandro Michele.
The move toward mixed gender fashion shows is getting a big-name boost — from Gucci. On Tuesday at The New York Times International Luxury conference in Versailles, France, Marco Bizzarri, chief executive of the brand, called for an end to separation of the sexes, or at least to their collections. From 2017, he said, the anchor brand of the Kering group will no longer hold different shows for men’s and women’s wear, but will rather combine the two into a single show, to be held each season.
“Moving to one show each season will significantly help to simplify many aspects of our business,” Mr. Bizzarri said. “Maintaining two separate, disconnected calendars has been a result of tradition rather than practicality.” Men’s wear shows and sales to wholesalers are now held in January and July, and the women’s in September/October and February/March.
The move follows similar announcements from Burberry (which will combine its men’s and women’s shows starting in September), Tom Ford (ditto) and the French brand Vetements (which will have a joint show in January 2017), all geared to close what brands say is a growing, and costly, gap between modern consumer expectations and the traditional fashion system. However, unlike those brands, which have said that they will also immediately sell the clothes they show — or, in Vetements’s case, close to immediately — Gucci does not plan to change its production calendar: It will show clothes that will be available six months later.
Call it show-everything-now/sell-later. It’s more radical than it sounds, because of Gucci’s size (it reported revenue of 3.9 billion euros, or $4.4 billion, in 2015, and has 525 wholly owned stores around the world) and its current position as a trend leader.
“It is really being looked to as a trailblazer in the industry,” said Julie Gilhart, a consultant and the former fashion director of Barneys New York. “That makes this move potentially the most disruptive change yet.”
On its face, unifying men’s and women’s wear makes sense, and not just because most consumers think of men’s and women’s wear as one category (“clothes”). Combining the collections creates obvious efficiencies, most clearly in the cost of a show, which can reach €1 million.
In addition, at a time when men’s and women’s wear are getting ever closer together — with Louis Vuitton putting Jaden Smith in its women’s wear ad campaign in women’s wear, unisex clothing on the rise, and the creative director of Gucci, Alessandro Michele, often including men in his women’s show and vice versa — combining the two underscores the message of a single brand aesthetic across genders.
“It will give me the chance to move towards a different kind of approach to my storytelling,” Mr. Michele said in a statement.
However, there is an institutional and municipal argument against combining the men’s and women’s weeks. Every fashion week city profits, literally and significantly, from playing host to the collections. Each season brings floods of buyers, critics and support staff into each city, providing a financial boon for related industries. According to a 2012 analysis by the New York City Economic Development Corporation, women’s wear weeks there alone have a “total economic impact per year of $887 million.”
No wonder why, in July 2015, New York Fashion Week: Men’s was introduced, following London Collections Men, which made its debut in 2012. (Previously, men’s wear had its own official weeks only in Milan and Paris, along with the Pitti Uomo trade show in Florence.) The first New York men’s week brought 3,000 people to the city.
It is not yet confirmed exactly when the joint Gucci show would take place, but given that men’s wear now accounts for 35 percent of Gucci sales while women’s represents 65 percent, odds are the combined show would take place during the women’s season.
If so, the absence of a brand like Gucci from Milan men’s week could leave a gaping hole in the schedule for many buyers, and, along with the Internet’s ease of access to shows, may create a convincing argument for some buyers and critics not to attend — or at least it may reduce the number who do.
Mr. Bizzarri said Gucci was working closely with the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, the governing body of Milan Fashion Week, but nothing had been decided yet.
According to Carlo Capasa, president of the Camera della Moda, “Given that the calendar situation is always evolving, it is hard to predict if there will be any negative effects.’’ The important thing, he said, is that the Italians “show powerful vitality as a whole” — perhaps (it is possible to imagine) by being the first to shift to a new system.
One striking thing about Gucci’s announcement is how many unresolved questions there are about the logistics.
Would the house, for example, invite men’s and women’s critics to the same show in September? Queried directly, Mr. Bizzarri said he did not know yet.
What would it mean for multibrand boutiques and department stores sending men’s wear buyers to shows in July? Would they send them again in September? “I don’t know,” Mr. Bizzarri said with a laugh, though given that 82 percent of Gucci’s 2015 sales were in their own stores — and that ready-to-wear accounts for only 11 percent of its sales — perhaps it does not matter.
Still, despite all the uncertainty, he said the decision was easy to make. “It just seemed obvious,” he said. “It’s clear something needs to change. Why not start with this?”
It remains to be seen whether other Kering brands like Bottega Veneta, Yves Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen, all of which show on both the men’s and women’s wear schedules, will follow suit. Right now, the group is treating Gucci as a test case, which may only add to the general confusion.
“It would be one thing if it all changed at once,” Ms. Gilhart said. “But everyone’s going off in different directions. It’s like the wild, wild West.”
Every year all the biggest celebrities from the fashion, music, and film worlds come together dressed to the nines for the Met Gala, a high-profile fundraising event that raises money for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute in New York City. The event is no ordinary fundraiser, however, as it draws attention from media outlets and people everywhere who are eager to see how celebs and fashion designers have interpreted the annual Met Gala theme. Last year’s theme “China: Through the Looking Glass”, was inspired by the Met’s exhibition by the same name and celebrities came adorned in the finest Chinese fabrics, and Chinese inspired designs. This year, in line with the Met’s recently launched exhibition Manus x Machina, the theme revolved around Fashion in the Age of Technology, and what became apparent during the evening, both through what celebs were adorned in and through the exhibit itself, was that technologies such as 3D printing are really the future of fashion.
On the red carpet—which was painted with a double-helix motif—as celebrity after celebrity posed in their stunning gowns and suits, it was interesting to see what interpretations of fashion and technology were brought forth. While many people chose to dress in metallic, or robotic styles, some celebrities went above and beyond in their embodiments of fashion in an age of technology by highlighting the recent advances in smart wearables. Model Karolina Kurkova, for instance, wore a stunning gown embedded with LED lights which flashed on when people tweeted #MetGala or #CognitiveDress. Claire Danes wore an equally dreamy number, a Cinderella inspired organza gown designed by Zac Posen that had ultrathin fiber-optics woven into it, which lit up in an eerie and stunning way.
Forward thinking fashion icon Emma Watson also impressed in a subtle black and white outfit which was made entirely from recycled plastics, showing the potential of sustainable fashion. Lady Gaga, of course, wowed everyone with a Versace ensemble that included a micro-chip esque jacket which was made with laser cutting technology. Girls actress Allison Williams was one of our personal favorites, as she came down the runway in an ethereal one-shouldered gown designed by Peter Pilotto, which was embellished with a number of 3D printed flowers.
Other guests opted for more traditional gowns and suits, which nonetheless played into the theme of Manus x Machina, as they demonstrated the continued relevance of couture and handmade clothing into the age of technology. As we will elaborate on later, the two are practically inextricable. On an anecdotal level, 3D printing made another fun appearance at the Met Gala, as young internet personality Cameron Dallas was gifted with a personalized cupcake which featured his face 3D printed on it. The cupcake was a gift from TopShop, who dressed the young celebrity.
Of course, the entire Met Gala soirée was based around the Costume Institute’s exhibition, Manus x Machina, which itself should be mentioned for its innovative approach to fashion. The exhibition, which was organized in association with Apple—whose own wearable tech is beginning to catch on—officially opened on May 5th, and is showcasing “how designers are reconciling the handmade and the machine-made in the creation of haute couture and avant-garde ready-to-wear.”
The topic, which is admittedly very broad, as even sewing machines could be considered technology, explores how technologies and machines have been utilized by fashion designers not necessarily as a way to streamline the designing process, but as a creative tool, as a sort of hand in itself. For those familiar with Dutch designer Iris van Herpen’s work, this philosophy may sounds familiar, as she is known for essentially understanding 3D printing technologies as an extension of her own creative hand.
Andrew Bolton, the curator in charge of the Costume Institute explains, “Traditionally, the distinction between the haute couture and prêt-à-porter was based on the handmade and the machine-made, but recently this distinction has become increasingly blurred as both disciplines have embraced the practices and techniques of the other. Manus x Machina challenges the conventions of the hand/machine dichotomy and proposes a new paradigm germane to our age of technology.”
The exhibition itself showcases more than 170 pieces dating from the early 1900s up until the present. With an equal focus on traditional handcrafting techniques like embroidery, featherwork, lacework, and leatherwork, and on more technological techniques like 3D printing the exhibition effectively explores the relationship between the two. Among the designers featured in the exhibit are icons such as Coco Chanel, Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen, Christian Dior, Viktor & Rolf, Comme des Garçons, Karl Lagerfeld, Hussein Chalayan, and two of our favorites, 3D printed fashion pioneers threeASFOUR and Iris van Herpen.
What the exhibit demonstrates is how technologies like 3D printing are effectively reinvigorating and revolutionizing the fashion industry, offering new and novel ways of creating both new materials and previously unthinkable designs. Of course, one of the arguments against the technology is that it takes away some of the personal touches and handcrafted care that go into the making of haute couture clothing, but as we can see from our current fast-fashion system, in which poorly paid laborers are essentially slaving away to make our clothing, the idea of the hand being pure is somewhat complicated.
So, is 3D printing the future of fashion? Considering how the technology is continually opening the doors for designers to explore new materials, new structures, and new designs, it is possible to imagine that additive manufacturing could actually be as revolutionary as even the sewing machine once was for the fashion industry. Perhaps one day, the technology will even go beyond its current haute-couture fashions and 3D printed fashions will be worn by everyone.
Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology will be running at the Robert Lehman Wing of the Costume Institute until August 14th, 2016.